![]() 06/30/2014 at 09:52 • Filed to: Toyota, Cressida, Wagon, Build, MX72, LSD | ![]() | ![]() |
Last week I found (thanks to car-part.com) a junkyard in PA that had a rear axle from an '81 Celica-Supra for a very reasonable price. I pre-paid for it and will be picking it up next month when I'll be up in PA anyway.
Yesterday I picked up an LSD from an '85 Celica-Supra P-Type for a stupidly awesome price. This diff will bolt into the MK1 solid axle, which will in turn bolt into my wagon.
I got right to work disassembling it. Here's the case, stub axles, and bearing and such chilling in the oil pan so they don't make too big of a mess. The rear cover is basically worthless as the fill plug threads are SUPER stripped. It was just RTV'd on.
And here's the bit I need. Well, actually I probably don't need the ring gear or the bearings, but the diff is what I was more referring to.
So as of now the plan is to grab one of these kits and a solid spacer kit (as well as new bearings/seals) and rebuild it (or get it rebuilt, more on that below)
Toyota Celica Supra- Supra 1979-86 ALL
Toyota Cressida IRS
MAXGRIP Supra 7.5". A real performance rebuild kit for the O.E.M. Supra LSD. These parts have been designed to get the maximum grip possible with the o.e.m. LSD! The kit comes with new stationary plates and new clutch plates that were normally not installed from the factory. Adding these two clutch plates increases the overall friction surface area 4X or 200% more than the typical factory LSD. Also included are new reversible solid bronze thrust washers, spiral grooved for oil. You also get new heavy-duty springs and complete shim kit (16 assorted thicknesses) for setting the clearances within the LSD to exact specs for best performance. Using this kit, your LSD will be more responsive, lock faster, with maximum grip! No more one-tire fire!
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Our solid pinion spacer kits are over 3X stronger than the typical o.e.m. crush sleeves. What does all this mean? What these parts do when correctly installed is set the distance between the inner and outer pinion bearings (bearing preload). At the same time, these parts also locate the pinion gear relative to the ring gear within the casing. So, why does the crush sleeve fail? It fails because it is too weak to resist deflection when high pinion loads are applied. This is why we often hear people say, "my ring and pinion finally blew up". The failure is not instantaneous as it would be if the gears were over-powered. The failure happens over time, due to repeated hard driving. High pinion loads deflect the pinion gear over and over until the o.e.m. crush sleeve becomes "loose" and cannot properly maintain the bearing preload. This also allows the position of the pinion gear within the casing to move causing misalignment of the ring and pinion gears. Over time, this leads to "howling" gears followed by "ground up" gear teeth and eventually destroys the gears. Protect your ring and pinion with one of our high strength steel solid pinion spacer kits. All kits come with instructions and shim sets.
After looking through this walkthrough, I think that it may be a project that is over my head. The tools alone would be hundreds of dollars. So I emailed the guy that runs this site to see what he would charge to rebuild it.
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![]() 06/30/2014 at 11:24 |
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Let me know about the price for the rebuild. I need to get that done for mine pretty soon. My rear axle is "clunking" when I change gears.
![]() 06/30/2014 at 12:09 |
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Dude said $300, not including shipping. That seems pretty reasonable to me, considering how much detail he goes into with each build.
![]() 06/30/2014 at 12:10 |
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That's not bad at all. So roughly $700 or so after you factor in the parts and shipping.
![]() 06/30/2014 at 14:17 |
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Roughly. I figure $50 each way shipping, around $250 in bearings/seals, and $250 for the Weir rebuild kit and solid collar. Add that to $350 for the rear end, plus $60 for the MA60 LSD, plus maybe $200 for all new brakes....That's not a cheap rear end anymore haha.